This is a haori and is definitely my favorite picture of the bunch. I love the interplay of colors and pattern. Haori were the short coats worn in the colder months. The outside is a woven pattern but the inside is dyed.

Until the end of the class system, Japanese were only allowed to wear certain colors and use certain materials depending on their social status (farmer, artisan, merchant or samurai). Often times, however, they would wear subdued outer clothing so as not to get in trouble but lined their clothing with “forbidden” fabrics.

This still exists in modern times – high school boys who want to be cool line their uniform jackets with silk or patterned fabrics. Girls have less options although one of the teachers I worked with said that the “bad girls” at his school took to wearing brightly colored bras beneath their white uniform shirts.

This is a juban – which is an undergarment.

Nice example of weaving.

Here, the balance of color and graphic elements are most important. Pink and red were (and still are) considered “sexy” colors and were often used for linings.

This is a kimono most likely worn by an older woman.

Here, the design is painted on after the garment has been dyed. As a finishing touch, the pinecones are stitched on. Pine is a symbol of long life and figures prominently in end of the year celebrations.

A subtle woven pattern on the lining here.